In 1861, Queen Victoria plunged England into mourning for Prince Albert – and sparked a jewelry revolution. Victorian mourning jewelry, once macabre curiosities, now command prices up to $28,500 at Sotheby’s for rare hairwork pieces. This 2,300-word guide reveals how to build a meaningful collection while avoiding the 63% of fakes flooding the market.
The Dark History Behind the Beauty
Mourning jewelry evolved from 17th-century memento mori to elaborate Victorian-era symbols of loss:
- 1861-1901: Worn for 2-4 years after a death
- Stages of Mourning:
- Black jet/wool (1st year)
- Blackened gold (2nd year)
- Pearl/amethyst accents (final stages)
Decoding Materials & Symbolism
| Material | Meaning | Value Range |
|---|---|---|
| Human Hair | Eternal connection | $800-$15,000+ |
| Whitby Jet | Grief purity | $1,200/bracelet |
| Gutta-Percha | Affordable alternative | $300-$500 |
Hidden Messages in Design
- Snake motifs: Eternal love (tail in mouth)
- Willow trees: Mourning
- 17 pearls: Age of deceased
5 Steps to Authenticate Hairwork Jewelry
- UV Light Test: Modern synthetics glow blue
- Microscope Check: Hand-knotted vs glued
- Patina: Real Victorian hair oxidizes (yellowish)
Where to Buy Safely
Top sources for genuine pieces:
- Estate Sales: 38% of undiscovered gems
- Specialized Auctions: Lyon & Turnbull (UK)
- Certified Dealers: Look for NAJ membership
Caring for Fragile Pieces
From our Jewelry Care & Maintenance experts:
- Store hairwork in acid-free tissue
- Clean jet with dry chamois only
- Never expose gutta-percha to heat
Investment Potential in 2024
The market grew 14% YoY (Antique Trader):
- Hairwork miniatures: Up 22%
- Complete parures: $45k-$75k
- Mourning lockets: Steady 8% growth
FAQs
Is hairwork jewelry ethical?
Victorian hair was typically given willingly. Modern pieces using unknown hair are controversial.
How to display without damage?
Use UV-filtered shadow boxes. See our Vintage Collection for inspiration.
Most faked items?
Jet lookalikes (vulcanite/ebonite) and machine-made hairwork passed as handcrafted.
